Mayapan

We were two of four total visitors to Mayapan one Sunday in June. There was a stillness about the place, and not just because of the lack of wind or stifling heat of summer. Nor was it the absence of huge tour buses and incessantly chattering tourists. It is a place I found peace of mind. I would like to spend more days sitting atop the highest pyramid and writing, while Pablo plays his tambor or sketches the surroundings.

Twelve thousand people are believed to have been living in Mayapán during its flourishing period in the 11th and 12th centuries. There were some 3600 buildings and 20 cenotes at the core of the center surrounded by 8 kms. of rock walls. It has not gone through major restoration, thus some visitors to this site do not see it as impressive, according to guide books I have read. What seemed so interesting to me were the thought provoking, unique rock shapes on the ground, the small wells, and the numerous cenotes.

According to Mayan lore, Mayapán was founded by the man-god Quetzalcoatl (Kukulkán in Maya) in 1007 AD. It was one of the three most important ceremonial and trade centers in the Yucatan during its time. For two and a half centuries it was the capital of a Mayan confederacy of city states with Uxmal and Chichén Itzá. In the 1200's the rulers of Mayapan conquered Chichén and Uxmal and held its leaders captive. A successful revolt of the captive rulers brought down Mayapán and it was all but abandoned in the mid-1400's.

The style of architecture here is very much like that of Chichén, although there are obvious Toltec and Puuc influences. The core of the site is smaller, and perhaps that is why for the first time I could almost envision the daily life of the original inhabitants. Although the grounds left you with the feeling that a lot of warring went on there, beyond that was the presence of all the people who lived there.

One of the advantages in visiting sites like Mayapán is that you can still climb all the pyramids and really explore the site in depth. So many of the heavily visited locations have created security restrictions. The government gets very protective when they are actively finding treasures buried inside the hidden tombs.

This apparent space ship landing lies at the bottom of one of the tallest temples on the site. Seriously, there is a well in the middle and I have to wonder what purpose the surrounding buildings served.This is a glimpse of El Castillo (the tall pyramid on the right) and El Caracol (the round building in the back on the left). This is a smaller version of the sight at Chichén Itzá. The buildings are almost the same.

The painted murals were impressive. These colors have held up for over a thousand years. These are the predominant colors found at most ruins where color murals are found, as the Mayans were traders and shared knowledge, obviously including dyes that were permanent and good for painting stories on the walls.

The ball court is hidden behind the cenote. The trees you see are growing out of the center of the cenote.

"Late post classic Maya society has been characterized as efficient and mercantile. The shift in focus away from elaborate architecture reflects an important reorientation in political and economic organization. Social energies were invested into economic production and exchange, and market systems encouraged participation from all members of society in economic affairs, providing them with the opportunity to profit from the fruits of their labor. This open economic system rewarded entrepreneurs, and decreased social distances between elites and commoners, allowing more people to enjoy an affluent lifestyle. The less elaborate public and residential architecture is viewed, not as a "devolution" of former Classic practices, but a reflection of new social norms and economic priorities..." -MAYA DIVINE KINGS OF THE RAIN FOREST, p.346

Palenque

Palenque. Not a lesser known ruin. In fact, it is one of México's most dynamic Mayan ruin sites. Located in the foothills of the Southern Sierra Norte de Chiapas mountains, Palenque contains hundreds of ruined buildings spread over 15 sq. km. As in other ruin sites, temples were built over ancient temples and discoveries are being made as archaelogists continue to dig. Palenque flourished from 630 AD to 740 AD. That is when Pakal and later his son Kan Baláam II had many of the temples seen today constructed. The more I learn about the Mayan history, it seems that all of these sites find evidence of human habitation as far back as 3000 bc.

The Temple of the Inscriptions was constructed by the Ruler Pakal. (Actually he began its construction for his tomb and his son had the temple completed once Pakal's remains were safely protected inside.) His tomb was discovered deep inside the temple in the 1950's. Back in the 80's we climbed the pyramid and then walked down a steep set of interior stairs to the tomb where we saw artifacts and the carved stone sarcophagus lid was in place. These items have since been removed to museums. Visitors are no longer allowed to climb this pyramid and they closed the interior due to excessive human humidity which negatively affected the preserved state of the findings.

The current viewing of Pakal's empty tomb through a new opening at the base of the Temple of Inscriptions.


The shadow of the snake god Kukulcan climbs up the great temple at sunrise on the day of the winter solstice, December 22, 2007.

The Palacio is comprised of four main buildings and courtyards.

Stelae found on site.

Inside the Palacio are underground walkways and arches.

Inside one of the courtyards in the Palacio.

Love these windows.

Below are more shots of the Palacio. The cross you can see signifies north, east, south and west to the Mayans.

The Northern group.

Current dig in the Acropolis Sur.

Looking up at the ball court.

I like this shot. I imagine that could be my room.

The largest temple in the Group of the Crosses.

God in stone.

Magic photo..temple in the group of the crosses.

As you can see by the excessive photo display, Palenque is one of my absolute favorite places. The first time I visited the ruins I slept in the hotel across the road from the park entrance. Now it is a museum and gift shop and parking lot. When I first heard the monkeys I was scared witless, I really thought there were lions and tigers and bears running around outside my room.

The road to the ruins from the village of Palenque is lined with places to stay. There are eco-hotels, cabañas, camping, upscale hotels; the gamut. You can find some nightlife there, mostly drummers and fire dancers. It is a very laid back area. It is a magical place. It is one place I like to visit as often as possible.