Seeing the Light

These two folks were lucky enough to see the phenomenon of the sun rising through the center of the doors of the Temple of the Seven Dolls at Dzibilchaltún Ruins, Yucatán. The equinox is September 21st. We did not go.

Today is the 22nd. We did not go yesterday because the recent in depth article I read about Dzib said the best viewing would be today. Unfortunately, the bomberos and policia and guardias told us this morning that they were not authorized to open up early today, only yesterday. When we mentioned the newspaper recommended today's viewing, we were told someone informed them incorrectly. Gotta love life in Mexico. I will post my own photo of this phenomenon in March, I promise. This sort of pissed me off.

I say 'sort of' because that is how life is. The thousands of people who went to Chichén Itzá were not only rained out, and did not get to see its equinoxial phenomenon: the Snake God Kukulcán descend the Castillo....but four people were struck by lightning! The hundred people who did not read the Diario de Yucatán and went to the Dzibilchaltún ruins on the usual day of the equinox(21st) were lucky enough to see the light.

Dzibilchaltún

Looking at the site from the Temple of the 7 Dolls.

Typical Mayan Palapa.

Dzibilchaltún

17 km (9 mi) north of Mérida, Yucatán

Dzibilchaltún is an important Mayan archeological site comprising of 19 kms. The arqueological zone surrounding it covers 600 hectares. Over 8500 structures were mapped by archeologists in the 1960’s, but very little have been restored or excavated. It is the third most visited ruin and the longest continuously utilized Mayan administrative and ceremonial city in the Yucatán. Evidence shows it was inhabited as early as 500 BC with its maximum population of 40,000 probably during the years 600 – 1000 AD.

An article recently appeared in the Diario del Yucatán (Imagen P.9, 1 Sept 2008) discussing the new information learned from INAH’s ten year continual work on this prehistoric site. Dzibilchaltún is in the middle of a total excavation predominantly on the main pyramid and in the central plaza. Much insightful material has surfaced. A series of flat stones with engravings were found that tell about Mayan mythology. Deciphering the inscriptions on the painted ceramics proved the previously thought strong relationship that was maintained between Dzibilchaltún and Chichén Itzá. Part of an insightful funeral offering (ofrenda mortuoria) was found as well as an elaborate carved text inlaid in deer bone (represented in Stela 19).

From these recent discoveries we now know Dzibilchaltún, which translates into Spanish as “Donde Hay Escrituras Sobre Piedras Planas”(Where There Are Incriptions on Flat Stones), was originally named Chi Y Chaan Ti’Ho. I would like to translate that for you, but it is tricky. It could mean the Small Mouth or Border of Old Merida, but I am looking up each word in my Mayan dictionary and the meanings are unclear. I will work on that!

Most of the current discoveries appear to correspond to contributions made by the leader Kalom’uk’uu Chaan Chaak sometime around the late 800 – 900 AD period.

There are two excellent examples of the sacbe, or white roads. One connects the Temple of the Seven Dolls to the southern end of the Plaza. The Temple of the Seven Dolls is perhaps the most impressive building as it is the only Mayan temple with windows and a tower instead of roof combs. It is so named for the seven small effigies discovered inside the temple.

The Temple of the 7 Dolls

On the days of spring and autumn equinoxes, the brilliant sun rises directly in the door of this temple. According to Lonely Planet Guide, “as it (sun) rises the temple doors glow, then light up as the sun passes behind. To ancient Mayans this light signified the time for planting and harvesting of crops. Although the park is open from 8am to 5pm (or 4:30 depending on which guide you read), on equinox days people flock to experience that exquisite first light of day. My plan is to follow up on this entry with some photos of this upcoming event on September 22nd.


In the center of the main plaza there is an open chapel built in the 16th century, showing Dzibilchaltún was inhabited until at the least the Spanish Conquest. On the opposite end of the sacbe from the Temple of the Seven Dolls is an example of older architecture and an impressive cenote. Named Xlacah, or “Pueblo Viejo” (Old Village), it is believed it earned its name due to Dzibilchaltún’s occupation during the pre-classic period. At least 30,000 artifacts have been extracted from the cenote. It is 44 meters deep in part, although a shallower area is a popular swimming spot for visitors. The cenote is beautifully covered with water lilies yet the water remains crystal clear.

The chapel in the central plaza.

Cenote Xlacah

The Museo del Pueblo Maya on site features excellent artifacts, has exhibits explaining Maya daily life and beliefs from ancient times. Although this site may not be as massive as Chichén Itzá it is a substantial site where one can visualize the changes that took place over the millennium of its occupation.

Another style of Palapa shown by Cherie.

Tools and typical indoor setup.

Ek' Balam

Ek’ Balam

119 mi. E of Mérida (190 km)
100 mi W of Cancún (160 km)
10 mi N of Valladolid (17 km)

This information is written in stone at the site, and is most informative:

“Commander Juan Gutiérrez Picón relates in the ‘Account of Ek’ Balam’ (1579), that Captain Francisco de Montejo granted him the capital of the district of Tiquilbalon or Ek’ Balam, containing five villages, for having been one of the conquerors of the region. According to this account, it also states that Tiquilbalon was founded and populated by the great man called Ek’Balam, who built most of the five structures at the site and that the rest were constructed by other captains, under his orders.

Ek’Balam is a Yucatec Maya name – apparently taken from this leader – which may be translated as the ‘black jaguar’ or ‘bright star-jaguar’.

The enormous dimensions of the buildings are what stand out at this site, as well as the fact that the central part is surrounded by two walls, an uncommon attribute. The most important structures are found within the walled enclosure of less than one square kilometer and distributed within two large, connected plazas, referred to as the Central and South Plazas. Numerous constructions of different sizes are found around these.

The walls have five entrances in different sections of its periphery and five sac be’oob (roads) which depart from them in the direction of the four cardinal points. The south side of the wall is a special case, as it has two entrances and two sac be’oob. The most important cultural period at Ek’Balam was the late Classic (700 – 1000 AD); however, the early inhabitants arrived earlier and remained living there until after 900 AD, as demonstrated by a few small constructions built after this date. Their characteristics are very different from the older buildings, which makes it clear that the society suffered some changes and dedicated les resources and work to construction.”

The central plaza.

Looking at the Acropolis from atop another pyramid.

As in many of the lesser known ruins, Ek’ Balam is covered in vegetation and only partially restored. All things considered, it is one of the most interesting sites in the area due to the mixtures of architectural styles that abound. Tree covered mounds stand next to reconstructed temples. Once you’ve gotten the feeling for the environment, you know those mounds are unrestored pyramids (temples) and realize how much is yet to be seen at this site.

One of many unrestored temples.

The words “Ek’ Balam” mean “dark/star/black jaguar”. I am going to go off track for a minute because of this translation. Three resources; three definitions of the word “ek’”. In learning the Mayan language, I question all this kind of stuff. I looked up Ek’ in the Diccionario Maya Popular. This word does not exist in my dictionary (there is ek, éek’, eek’ but no ek’), but check out these entries:
Ek: A bumblebee
Eek’: star
Éek’: dirty (as in dirty laundry) or dark
Éek’ Báalam: a medicinal plant of the Croton family
Báalam: jaguar
I am going to leave the title of this article as it is, but for future reference, this incredible Mayan site will be called “Eek’ Báalam” in my book and be known as STAR JAGUAR.

The view atop Acropolis with visible sacbe. In the distance you can barely make out Cobá.

Eek’ Báalam contains some of the finest sculptures in the Yucatán. It holds the record of having the longest continuously inhabited communities in the area. The “sac be’o’ob’” or white roads, raised limestone paved causeways used as footpaths between Mayan cities, are visible from the top of the tallest pyramid. On a clear day (which most days are, it seems) you can see the ruins of Cobá and Chichén Itzá as well. The sacbes lead to those ruins. Some of the white roads stretch 100 miles. One day I would like to walk the length of one of the sacbe’o’ob and feel the spirits in the jungle.

This was a walled city, much like Tulum on the Caribbean coast. The core area is 4 square miles (6 sq km). Eek Báalam was first settled in the Pre Classic era, around 100 BC. Most of the buildings in the central plaza were built around 800 AD or later. The Acropolis is one of the tallest buildings in the Yucatán standing 32 meters high (100 ft.). The size of the building is most impressive. At 520 ft (160 m) long and 200 ft (60 m) wide, it holds a series of separate chambers. Many of them are currently under restoration. They are continually finding more elaborately designed and surprisingly well preserved stucco sculptures and inscriptions. The most impressive chamber is a huge stucco frieze covered in inscriptions. The door transforms into the wide open jaws of a snake with skulls on the corners supporting unusual human winged figures, called Mayan Angels. This is an elaborate representation of the gaping mouth of the underworld god, Xibalbá.. This was only seen in the Chenes architectural style, which flourished far away in Campeche.

Winged Mayan Angels.

The frieze looking up from the ground.

There is a unique caracol (conch shaped) building, much like the one used in Chichén Itzá, a rounded building thought to be used to study the stars. There is a fine arch similar to those found in the Ruta Puuc near Uxmal and the ruins near Campeche.

Thought provoking rounded structures.

The arch, similar to Kabah and Uxmal structures.

Eek’ Báalam and nearby Yaxuná appear to have been defeated by military operations in the 11th century. Many native plants have been preserved, and Eek´ Báalam gives one the feeling of walking through a botanical garden. It is one of those destinations that beckons you to return. You know that each time you go more of the site will be accessible and understandable as the mysteries continue to be unraveled.

Unidentified flower.