Tikal has impressive tall temples. Palenque’s pride is its limestone relief panels. Copán is famous for its sculpture and hieroglyphics. As one of the most important Mayan sites, more hieroglyphs have been found here than at any other archaeological site, offering more than just a glimpse of the history of Copán. 25,000 sculptures have been found. There are 4,500 known structures in the 135 sq. km. of ruins in the Copán Valley. Five separate phases of building have been identified. What we see today was built during 600-800 AD; underneath the visible temples are layered and connected by a series of underground tunnels.
Copán was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1980 and a Honduran National Monument in 1982. One Spaniard discovered Copán in 1570, but he only found five families living there who insisted they didn’t know anything about its history. Nearly three hundred years later another Spaniard arrived and drew up the first map of Copán.
It is believed Copán was first inhabited circa 1200 BC and was dominant from 250 through 900 AD. 20,000 Chorti Maya lived in the 15 square miles (24 sq. km.) of the principal site. Most of the artwork we see today was built by the Kings Smoke Shell and 18 Rabbit between 600 and 700 AD.
Admiring the work of the ancients.
The entrance to the ruins is a bit confusing. There is a ticket office but no signs. We were surprised at the $15 US entrance fee for the ruins, $15 US to enter the tunnels, and $7 US for the museum per person. Somehow we found ourselves inside the ruins without tickets to the tunnels. If you didn’t pay to enter the tunnels before entering the site, you blew it. They don’t sell them at the tunnel entrances, and if you exit the park to purchase them you pay another $15 to re-enter. Copán is not as user friendly as the other ruins we visited.
After entering at the highly armed guard gate, we walked through the park to arrive at the Grand Plaza. Noticeable are the numerous stelae standing tall on the manicured lawn. The stelae portray the rulers of Copán and were all originally painted. Only Stele C has remnants of the red paint. Several of the sculptures represent Uaxaklajún Ubah K’awil (18 Rabbit). Some have figures on both sides, and all of them are covered in glyphs.
After entering at the highly armed guard gate, we walked through the park to arrive at the Grand Plaza. Noticeable are the numerous stelae standing tall on the manicured lawn. The stelae portray the rulers of Copán and were all originally painted. Only Stele C has remnants of the red paint. Several of the sculptures represent Uaxaklajún Ubah K’awil (18 Rabbit). Some have figures on both sides, and all of them are covered in glyphs.
Red paint evident on Stele C in the Grand Plaza.
King Uaxaclajún Ubah K'awil (18 Rabbit) is represented in several stelae.
Moving on to the Acropolis, we see Copán’s most famous feature, the hieroglyphic staircase. The 63 step, 80 ft. high steps lead to the Temple of the Inscriptions. The steps are comprised of several thousand glyphs creating a genealogical tree of the HISTORY OF THE ROYAL HOUSE OF COPÁN.
Heiroglyphic staircase .
At the bottom of the stairs is a stele of King Smoke Shell. (He sounds like fun!) This is the longest text carved into stone by the Maya, but there are large gaps in the history due to the crumbling of the temple over time. The staircase is now protected by a roof, limiting visibility and photo opportunities. In the same courtyard is Altar Q. The carvings all around its sides represent 16 kings of Copán. Macaws and jaguars were the favorite sacrifice offered to please the gods.
Acropolis photos.
People with tickets going into tunnel Los Jaguares, and headed OUT of the park!
There are many tunnels in Copán, but only two of them were opened to the public in 1999. One is a short walk leading to the flagrantly red Rosa Lila Temple, showing part of it completely intact underneath newer constructions. A life size replica of Rosa Lila, or Temple of the Sun, is on display in the museum on site. The original temple was discovered in 1989. According to its glyphs, it was originally dedicated in 571 AD.
The Rosa Lila Temple replica in the museum open to sun and sky.
People with tickets entering Rosa Lila tunnel.
The other tunnel used to be 700 meters long. It was reduced to 80 meters when opened to visitors. There is a catch-22 involved in visiting tunnel Los Jaguares. If you enter it, it leads you out of the park. If you want to re-enter, you guessed it, you have to pay fifteen more bucks!
Copan’s ball court is the third one built in that location. The two smaller courts are buried underneath. The ball court we see is the second largest in Central America and is unique with its hoops shaped like macaws’ heads. It was dedicated in 731 AD. They say this game was played by participants moving a hard rubber ball through the air (and hoops) without using their hands. The prize for winning may have involved a trip to the altar – as a sacrifice!
The other tunnel used to be 700 meters long. It was reduced to 80 meters when opened to visitors. There is a catch-22 involved in visiting tunnel Los Jaguares. If you enter it, it leads you out of the park. If you want to re-enter, you guessed it, you have to pay fifteen more bucks!
Copan’s ball court is the third one built in that location. The two smaller courts are buried underneath. The ball court we see is the second largest in Central America and is unique with its hoops shaped like macaws’ heads. It was dedicated in 731 AD. They say this game was played by participants moving a hard rubber ball through the air (and hoops) without using their hands. The prize for winning may have involved a trip to the altar – as a sacrifice!
The heiroglyphic staircase, the ball court, and the scenery of Copán.
The ball court with macaw headed hoops.
Historians think the 20,000 residents put a strain on the valley’s agricultural resources by 900 AD, and the ensuing deforestation caused flooding, so the people moved on. By 1200 AD Copán was completely reclaimed by the jungle. On January 1, 2005, 1500 Chorti Maya, descendants of the original builders, occupied the ruins and closed them from visitation for five days as they protested for human rights to the indigenous people. The living conditions for the 8,000 Chorti living there now are still stark and difficult, and the issue of government subsidies is still an unresolved problem. Maybe that explains the somewhat hostile vibes we felt from the locals at the ruins and in the town of Copán Ruinas.
The entrance to the museum is a snake's mouth. Inside you wind around its innards until you reach the open and sunny museum. The museum is new and beautiful inside.
In town we found a busy family hostel with reasonable rates after a lengthy inquiry of available lodging. Pablo and I were traveling together, and if I asked the price of a room they looked at my blonde hair and blue eyes and promptly responded $50 US. Finally I waited in the park and Pablo found us a decent room for $25 US. The monetary unit of Honduras is the lempira, but if I’m not mistaken the tourist business operators all had bright green dollar signs in their eyes.
We loved the ruins, but the hostile environment felt like a heavy cloud hanging over the beautiful valley that is Copán.
Pablo drawing the scene as we sit admiring the ancient man sculpture
We loved the ruins, but the hostile environment felt like a heavy cloud hanging over the beautiful valley that is Copán.
Pablo drawing the scene as we sit admiring the ancient man sculpture
This looks like the work of King Smoke Shell, all smiley, but it's just a guess.
Fearsome representation of the rain god Chak as a sacrificial altar.
5 comments:
nice post.
Oh, I see you made it here. Thanks. A little long, but I really got into and learned a lot.
I'm interested in using the foto of the "zero" sculpture in a book. Can anyone tell me where I can obtain info about the image? Thanks, Bailey: artfxu@gmail.com
Bailey,
I will do a little research and get back to you. Lin
Beautiful photos. I didn’t check out the tunnels when I was there. I kind of wish I had. We totally tried to bribe the guy who was guarding the gate to let us both in for $10. No joy. Since when can't you bribe someone in CA? Maybe next time. Copan was by far the favorite of all the ruins we visited in CA.
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